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View Full Version : Help! -Garage door opener pulled bracket off new garage door


Dormer_man
03-22-2005, 03:03 PM
I purchased a new Wayne Dalton garage door from Lowes and had their team install it in Sept 2004. They connected my old Craftsman garage door opener to the new door.

Everything worked fine for a month until I painted the outside of the door. The evening after I painted, I used the garage door opener to open the door and the door bracket connecting the opener to the door ripped off the door.

The bracket had been glued onto the top (window) panel of the door at the Wayne Dalton factory. Apparently my paint job that day created a seal between the door and the weatherstripping that was sufficient to rip the bracket loose. The factory glue was all that held a steel bracket on a vinyl door.

I have attempted to get the door fixed under warranty (there is a lifetime warranty on the door) but Wayne Dalton has given me nothing but grief. They attempted to charge $100 to send a team out to verify it was manufacturer's defect, after Lowes already verified it.

My question for the forum is how do I fix it myself? The Wayne Dalton door panels are made of vinyl, with insulation between.

Should I try to reattach the door bracket by placing mending plates on the outside and inside of the door and bolting them together? Or should I try to reattach the bracket by re-glueing it where it was before. Remember, the bracket is steel and the door panel is vinyl. Maybe Gorilla glue would work?

Any suggestions are welcome. I thought of posting this one under Horror Stories.

Tom R
03-22-2005, 03:45 PM
Sheesh, - - glue only?, - - unbelievable, - - your 'mending-plate' idea is the best (and safest) bet, - - maybe you can find something 'decorative' looking. I wouldn't trust any kind of glue for that application, - - different materials, - - varying expansions and contractions, - - changes in weather and humidity, - - on and on.

dhill
03-23-2005, 06:35 PM
I agree with Tom, I think you answered your own question. Use the plates. Drill through and bolt the bracket on the door. I'm no expert, but I can't think of any short cut way to attach a bracket that's going to stay on when it has that much stress on it. I can't believe the original was glue only, even if it were pressure glued.

Dragon
03-26-2005, 12:58 PM
Ok I'll play devil's advocate.

I don't see this as being a warranty situation. You were the only that painted your door shut. Go buy a few nuts and bolts and fix the darned thing. It will cost you maybe $5 and a little time.

And if you repaint, remove the weatherstrip until the paint drys...

One might also suggest that you find a better source for things than Lowes and their "quality contractor installation teams".

Dormer_man
03-26-2005, 04:00 PM
Thank you Tom, dhill, and Dragon.

Well I must admit it could be partially my fault for painting the door that afternoon and trying to use the electric door opener that evening. I could have anticipated the paint seal if I was more careful.

But I'll tell you, if this were the fifties or sixties and it was a solid wooden door with bolts and nuts through the opener bracket, the paint seal would have broken loose well before the door bracket.

I did fix it today at a cost of less than 10 bucks. But those galvanized mending plates sure do look ugly on the hunter green door. Maybe I will paint the plates. :wink:

Vector
03-26-2005, 08:57 PM
One possible other solution (that would cost a fair amount of money, and I'm not actually suggesting it), would be one of W-D's iDrive garage door openers that attach on the torsion tuibe above the door and use it to lift via the cables. That has no attachement to the actual door itself.

The issue is that they generally run about $250 and, well, let's just say I went through the trouble of completely deinstalling both of mine and returned them. One of them I had never even plugged in. The experience with the one I did was enough.

rabadger
03-31-2005, 05:01 PM
Am I glad you posted that problem. I have to get a new garage door. I think I will stay away from the glued models :wink:

Dormer_man
04-03-2005, 05:38 PM
Thanks to all who responded.

Well here is the (ugly) fix.

But geez it's nice to be able to use the garage door opener again.

Do you know this is a top of the line Wayne Dalton door and it does not even have a handle on the outside?

I had to stoop over and grab the bottom under the weatherstripping to open it from outside.

Never again will I deal with them!

Vector
04-03-2005, 08:53 PM
Well, I agree that this shouldn't have happened, but:

- Vinyl is not "top of the line"

- If the door is adjusted and balanced correctly, the force on the opener bracket should be very minimal.

- Pretty much nobody includes handles anymore, the expectation is that you will use an opener, and then handles are potentially dangerous. Handles are available from most manufactureres as an option, however.

My steel, insulated Wayne Dalton doors have an almost 100% identical bracket on them. It is, however, screwed into the steel. The screws on the adapter plate for the Genie go through the door plate and into the steel door, also. I can raise or lower the door with one finger, so I know the opener isn't working hard, nor is there a large amount of force on the attachment point.

And I had to rehang the goddamn thing three times before I got it that perfect :P The worst thing about W-D is the instructions. Oh, and their openers.

Dormer_man
04-03-2005, 10:23 PM
Vector,

I must apologize to you, my door is an insulated steel door also, covered in vinyl. It is a Wayne Dalton model 9100.

If you are affiliated with, or a proponent of Wayne Dalton products, I mean you no harm.

My point was, and still is, that a paint seal 4 hours old should not have been sufficently strong to rip a bracket off a new garage door.

Especially when WD advertises this door as "paintable".

And the "lifetime warranty" advertised by WD may be a powerful marketing ploy, but woe unto him who attempts to appeal to it.

Vector
04-03-2005, 10:52 PM
Vector,

I must apologize to you, my door is an insulated steel door also, covered in vinyl. It is a Wayne Dalton model 9100.

If you are affiliated with, or a proponent of Wayne Dalton products, I mean you no harm.

No, I'm not. Sure, I like my doors, but I have a lot of gripes with W-D too. And I'm not really trying to argue with you either.

My point was, and still is, that a paint seal 4 hours old should not have been sufficently strong to rip a bracket off a new garage door.

It depends on how thorough the seal was, if you painted it around all three edges and onto the seals, that's a lot of force to overcome. Just think about how much force it can take to open a window that's you've painted shut (if you've never done this, good for you, I have, and even just an hour or two later it can take an enormous amount of force to free the sash up). I'm a big guy, but I've really had to throw my weight into getting a couple unstuck. Paint is thin, but the surface area adds up fast.

Honestly, when I posted my last reply, I had forgotten about the paint (oops, I claim new father's constant distraction!). So completely ignore my part about the balance of the door.

Especially when WD advertises this door as "paintable".

And the "lifetime warranty" advertised by WD may be a powerful marketing ploy, but woe unto him who attempts to appeal to it.

Gluing the opener bracket attachment point to the door is pretty cheap and cheesy, no doubt. But in the "normal course of operations" it suffices. Superior products can survive some mishandling, but unfortunately, most products are "just good enough."

But in the end, when you painted it, you basically glued the door shut (not intentionally, of course), and that's outside the "normal course of operations." And I don't think W-D has any responsibility to fix it. Would it be a nice gesture and good PR for them to do it? Of course.

I'm a little surprised that your opener didn't see the door as being stuck and stop pulling though. You might have the opening force set higher than ideal. It might be just fine too, and the glue job on the plate might just simply be that bad.

Dormer_man
04-04-2005, 04:41 AM
Well the old Craftsman garage door opener is certainly built better than "just good enough". It is attached to the ceiling studs with angle irons and case hardened #5 steel bolts.

But I agree with you, it pulls so hard it may be hazardous. I will check the tension.

Who knows, maybe in the next decade we will see a new generation of garage door openers that are glued to the sheetrock on the ceiling. :roll:

Tom R
04-04-2005, 03:29 PM
Who knows, maybe in the next decade we will see a new generation of garage door openers that are glued to the sheetrock on the ceiling. :roll:


Now, how in the world am I supposed to get any sleep tonight knowing you went ahead and gave them that idea!! :lol: